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Who Lost Japan?

In The World on September 3, 2009 at 11:39 am

Recent developments in Japan may dramatically change the country and the region, but for better or for worse?

Last week, Japan elected Democratic Party, ending the ruling party (Liberal Democrats)’s virtually uninterrupted reign since the end of the Second World War. In the West, the story was not paid much of an attention because in Japan, the prime ministers change faster than their car models (and boy, they do upgrade the latter a lot). However, the 300+ seat majority in the parliament means that the DPJ will be here for three or four years. In the United States, we love to think that U.S.-Japan relations are shaped in Washington D.C. (and the lobby offices). However, throughout the post World War history, it is the Liberal Democratic Party that defined the U.S. relationships. Now, with LDP gone, who knows where this relationship will end up.

But we can venture a guess. The newly elected Democratic Party’s policies put a big question mark upon the Japanese contributions to the war in Afghanistan and the redeployment of American troops in Asia. That sentence sounds like something a talking-head on the television would say but it has deep implications–all US ships and aircraft carriers crossing the Pacific to patrol South China Sea, the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea are currently being refueled at Japan. A US Marine airfield in Okinawa and additional troops on Japan are deterrants to North Korea. This new government can jeopardize everything. This may be the first real foreign policy crisis President Obama faces.

The party’s leader (and soon-to-be Prime Minister), Yukio “The Alien” Hatoyama, whose speeches are boring as hell, droned against the American-led globalization and urged a greater Japanese focus on Asia. “A Bloc of Asian nations led by the Japanese and free of Western powers?” For some of us this sounds eerily familiar to Japan’s pre-WWII Empire dreams, Greater East Asian Co-Prosperity Sphere.

To add insult to injury, Mr. and Mrs. Hatoyama are not quite there in the upstairs department. Mrs. Hatoyama, former actress Miyuki, said that she flew in a UFO to Venus and that in a previous life she met Tom Cruise. The First Couple are intensely ’spiritual’ and eat the sun, whatever that means. (Mr. Alien and Mrs. UFO should get on like a house on fire).

So the question is Who Lost Japan? The Democratic Party wining 308 seats out of 480-seat parliament is no accident. In Japan, a younger generation strives for a move away from its long-time dependence on the United States. Last year’s financial crisis also undermined the entire financial system in place since WWII. Hatoyama (the scion of the family hailed as Japan’s Kennedys) called for high taxation to the rich–the first attempt in decades to tap into Japan’s plentiful private-sector wealth. His message apparently resonated.

For now, Mr. Hatoyama will have to wade through Japan’s extremely bureaucratic, patriarchal political system, a system he detests. He has a mandate from the Japanese people, who voted for change and progress’ sake. Whether he will be a strong prime minster, or a good one remains to be seen. Always a minor political party, the DPJ is a fractious party, ranging from socialists to disgruntled former members of the LDP. Good Luck helming that herd.

Democracy’s loss is our gain…

In The World on June 16, 2009 at 8:13 am

A Machiavellian Primer: How we will lose the battle and win the war in Iran

American people don’t vote in large numbers; turnouts are depressingly low. It may be a collective action problem, but the Americans just don’t have to vote in numbers. They know their country is in good shape, and they know—so does Gallup—that a few voters can make educated choices.

However, when people do go to polls in unprecedented numbers, it is only to vote out an old flawed government. A referendum on the existing government, a large turnout is a sign that many people are angry with the old government. That is why it is surprising that last Friday, people elected the old government of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad in Iran, despite a large turnout.

Or did they? I am not going to dwell on the ‘irregularities’, we can create something productive, something useful out of this rigged election. Yes, Machiavellian it may seems but we are jolly well going to get a profit out of this god-send (or should I say Allah-send) opportunity.

As Washington begin its proposal for negotiations with Tehran, we all know that the power lies with the ayatollahs and not with the elected officials. Ahmadinejad is an irrational, but ironically enough, predicable character. Using his past words, the U.S. can get a win-win situation out of his second term—if Ahmedinajed negotiate, it can lead to a peaceful Middle East. If he does not, he is repudiating his (doubtful) words on rapprochement with the West and he also risks losing the confidence of now-already-sour Iranian people.

However, on the other hand, with Moussavi, we lose our biggest card—Ahmadinejad himself. The megalomaniacal president calling Israel’s annihilation is someone we love to hate. He is our Hitler. His bland opponent is more unyielding than Ahmadinejad on the nuclear issue, and lacks the support of the ayatollahs. Negotiating with him will lead us nowhere.

Speaking of the ayatollahs, now that they themselves are advocating for an electoral investigation, use the UN to send overseers. If they allow it, it is a step towards transparency. If they don’t, it is as good as a signed admission that the election is rigged.

Well, actually, it is rigged—we know it. The Russians know it and the Chinese do too. Should we be trumpeting this fact and alienating not only the ayatollahs but also the people who still pride that theirs is at least a ‘democratic’ country compared to many others in the Middle East? Instead, we should use the diplomatic brokering to convince the Europeans—France, Great Britain and Germany in particular—that their conciliatory approach towards Iran is not actually working, and that nations like Libya or Iran could never be democracies through negotiations.

Elsewhere in the world, Ahmadinejad’s win is a god-send card. In Iraq, it is their ‘Red Scare’ card. With President Obama’s troop withdrawal plans, the Iraqis should cast aside their religious and ethnic differences and come together as a nation—and a US ally at that. A hardliner regime in Iran can help this. In Egypt and Saudi Arabia–which don’t want a Shia (Iran) bomb–this election puts a leverage on their leadership. Now, with Ahmadinejad’s win, they have to try their best to aid US in containing Iran. Reciprocally, the US can use ‘nuclear proliferation’ card with China and Russia even more strongly now. In Israel, Netanyahu–with his hardliner agenda–is smiling. The US can now finally explain why undemocratic Iran or its irrational leadership threatens Eastern Europe and therefore necessitate a missile shield. The Russians won’t buy it, but they will have to live with it.

When the mullahs of Iran deliver a lemon, we will not only to make lemonade out of it, but also shove it down their throats. Mills of God grind slowly but …

On the Fifth Avenue

In Glamour Pages, The World on March 24, 2009 at 3:49 am

Depressing, Nostalgic, Stimulating–my adjectives will deplete if I describe Fifth Avenue thoroughly

For the past two days, New York has been meekly trying to get on my nerves-it is deceiving me. The weather is great. The lines at the Empire State Building were shorter than I expected (yes, I am complaining that), thus depriving me of essential Soviet Uni-I mean-Big Apple experience. Both Metro (dirt cheap at 25$ for a week pass) and taxis (to whose ostentatious and signature yellow hue I don’t approve) prove to be accessible and annoyingly quick. It was just not what I had in mind.

I have been to New York once before. But behind the glasses of the limousine my mother’s company provided, and of the Millennium Hilton (also a courtesy extended to my illustrious mother), I barely witnessed the actual New York. Hotdogs, fashionable commuters, subways, that sort of stuff. (Our suite at the Millennium Hilton oversaw a depressing and drab Ground Zero and equally drab skyline of Jersey at the horizon).

So I forayed back to the familiar territory–Fifth Avenue. Yes, with my mom, I got to see the 5th Avenue. But I don’t remember it at all, and so I went back there again today. I am surprised (and almost shocked) to realize that I practically know all the names on the 5th Avenue, from famous (Cartier) to exclusive (Harry Winston) to exotic (Van Cleef & Arfels). But the jewel in the Crown of Fifth Avenue is the original Saks. Yes, Saks Fifth Avenue derived its name from the street.

I am a little disappointed in Saks too. Despite being the premier couturier to the rich and the famous (I am tempted to put the prefix in- in front of that word), Saks didn’t have bowties. After being directed from section to section (which included a foray into a men’s fashion salon on 6th Floor, occupied entirely by guys who I suspect are gay), and after being guilted into squandering my two months’ worth of allowance, I finally gave up. Also, I learnt a curious thing-although 2nd level of Saks in titled “Designer clothes & Fur” (or something along those lines), I didn’t seen a single animal hair, let alone mink or vicuna stoles. We cannot let those PETArrorists win!

Outside the stores of the 5th Avenue are not raving PETAs, but small vendors who sell everything from T-shirts to ‘designer’ eyeglasses to what-they-claimed-to-be Venetian silk. It is almost a sacrilege to see these shops there (local flair be damned); it is like seeing a brothel or a witchdoctor’s next to a Church. But I must not be too judgmental because that is what exactly the 5th Avenue is.

Cohabiting the 5th Avenue with the very abodes of the decadent luxury they denounce are Churches. At least three famed Churches coexist with the cathedrals of fashion. Cartier is just a building away from St. Patrick’s Cathedral-the largest Catholic Cathedral in the United States.

The best ways to end your Fifth Avenue Adventure exist at, surprise, surprise!, the Central Park South end of the shopping district. There are novelty horse carriages (highly reminiscent of Vienna if only the Viennese were more gaudy) on one corner, and novelty glassy Apple store on the other. [I didn't like the store that much, but at least I was in the glass elevator. Thank you, Steve, for fulfilling my Roald Dahl fantasies].

However, I didn’t end my ambulatory (writing that word is almost as tiring as the act itself) sojourn with Apple. I ended it with a well-deserved dinner to recuperate from walking and shopping at the Plaza, one of Manhattan’s best hotels which is also conveniently located at the end of the 5th Avenue to.

I won’t make a Plaza Hotel product placement here, but I will say although the choices are limited, the meal at the Rose Club restaurant there is perfectly affordable. Their appetizer is addictive to say the least, and their dessert is, there is only one word for it, sumptuous. The lobster was one of the best I have ever eaten.

May be I am little partial because my appetite was whetted (and my judgment clouded) by the hotel’s signature cocktail, the Plaza Manhattan. Created to mark the inauguration of Gov. Samuel Tilden at a Manhattan Club party way back in 1874, the Plaza Manhattan is served with Jim Beam Rye Whiskey stirred nimbly with Noilly Prat Sweet Vermouth and Angostura Bitters-which I found a touch more stimulating (my codeword for intoxication).

But hey, don’t blame me. Blame it on the person who depressed me to drinking five Plaza Manhattans. And it is not Maitre d’.

An Elegy for Facebook

In Feelings and Remembrances, The World on March 18, 2009 at 8:58 am

I remember the first days of facebook. We uploaded pictures; we poured our notes and pokes into it; we started chain letters, invited each other just to access countless useless applications. In short, we were introduced to this Brave New World of our lives. For an increasingly needy and attention-seeking society, Facebook provide a life where you can have friends (or their pale virtual selves) around you 24/7.

This Brave New World added a new flavor and a new layer to our lives. Universities and employers are checking their applicants’ facebook profiles. Someone was sacked because she candidly wrote she was bored at work on her facebook status. We post arrays of compromising pictures online, taking pride in those virtual Scarlet Letters. Yet, behind the facade of vicarious empathy or shallow outrage, our increasingly Schadenfreude society smiles at our collective ‘brainless’ acts and laughs at those misfortunes.

Then only last month, we realized our privacy was robbed away. Actually, more appropriate phrase will be that privacy withered—much like our money and 401(k)s. Facebook’s new terms of use is the wake-up call for many of us although many of us blithely ignored the warning signs. (I can draw endless but painful analogies to the financial crisis here, but I will spare you).

Web 2.0 sundered barriers. Instead of being six degrees away from someone, we are less than a mouseclick away. Yet, we don’t want to know about them. I don’t want to know what my less-than-popular nerdy friend from six grade math class is playing. You won’t probably want to know what your banker who is probably responsible for your toxic assets is having for lunch. But that is exactly what facebook’s latest trend, “25 things you don’t (want to) know about me” is conveying. [A friend of mine is declaring his Presidential ambitions on facebook, even naming the exact year when he will throw his hat into the ring. (If Ron Paul is dead by then, he will probably get a following over the webfolk--or as I like to call them "The Lost Generation"). But I digress.] And that is why we are immigrating to Twitter.

Yes, Twitter is ugly, and not user-friendly. It is a relic of a time where we had no iPhones and our investment portfolios looked good (oh, it seems such a long time ago). But we (I speak for myself while shamelessly invoking 2nd person again and again) like it—its minimalist approach appeals to Luddites and nerds alike. A 140-letter status bar plus a snippet of a profile picture is a synecdoche of facebook, and may even be the latter’s demise.

Just because we don’t want to know about what brand of toothpaste you use.

2008–the Year in Review

In The World on January 12, 2009 at 7:36 am

Pessimism is in the air-and it is contagious too. A few weeks before, during a conversation on the global financial meltdown, I assured my friends that if we are to harken back to 2008 in three years’ time, we will definitely laugh at our Cassandra-like pessimism and anxieties mainly with. They were not convinced–neither was I.

This was indeed a terrible year for the establishment and the politicians who inhibit it, a year when gossip columns shifted from covering celebrity DUIs to Spitzer’s hypocrisy, baby Edwards and  Blagojevich’s caveat emptor. In America’s longest election season, Hilary Clinton did everything (3AM phone-calls, Rev. Wright); Rudi Giulani nothing. Both lost. So did that not-so-maverick-y senator, whose campaign only proved that he himself was not so above partisan mudslinging. McCain threw his experience card away by nominating a folksy, yet inexperienced, Alaskan Governor who has strange ideas for naming kids, and even stranger ones on foreign policy.

On her way to become a hobgoblin for liberal media, Sarah Palin stopped only to shop and wink, but even her spending couldn’t stop Wall Street-and McCain’s campaign-from crashing. The Feds looked the other way as the Lehman Brothers’ stocks plummeted to a point where its headquarters came to worth more than the entire company. On the other hand, it helped AIG, which celebrated the bailout by throwing a lavish staff party. Automakers flew to Washington to proclaim their confidence in American cars. In the first half of the year, the oil prices increased from 100$ to 150$ before dropping precipitous in the second half. Apple learnt its five billion dollars lesson on the dangers of depending on one person when a internet rumor sleazed Steve Jobs’ health.

Change is also in the air in New Zealand where longtime Prime Minister Helen Clark got replaced by a stockbroker-New Zealand is apparently where the stockbrokers thrive after getting fired from the Lehman Brothers. Meanwhile, Republican politician comes in a close second to stockbroker on the jobs being cut list. Sen. Jesse Helms (R-NC), notorious as Senator No for his isolationist policies, died. His successor to the curmudgeon title, Ted Stevens (R-AK), whose accomplishment so far has been calling internet a series of tubes, narrowly lost a senate race which, had he won, would have made him the first felon (nay, the first felon who got caught) in the Senate. The democrats dreamt of a filibuster-proof senate, but Joe Lieberman nightmare still hovered over their heads.

China celebrated its big coming out Olympics with virtual fireworks, lip-synching and by taking child-labor to the next step. While the international media is trying to downplay China’s gold medal count with Michael Phelps’ eight golds, Russia rolled her tanks into Georgia. Nicholas Sarkozy, found time to negotiate Russo-Georgian ceasefire while also managing a supermodel wife and YSL’s funeral.

In Italy, Silvio Berlusconi is back along with his gaffes: he called Barack Obama ’sun-tanned’. South Africa lost its AIDS conspiracy theories and its President, his seat. Meanwhile, Mbeki’s failed power-sharing talks kept Robert Mugabe in power in neighboring Zimbabwe.

Like Giuliani with early primaries and Mugabe with cholera, Burma’s junta blithely ignored a cyclone that devastated the nation’s agribusinesses. In neighboring Thailand, one prime minister got kicked out for appearing in a cooking channel and prime ministers changed faster than the sentries in the royal palace. Mortgage crisis hits Nepal as its king got evicted.

Putin stepped down in Russia but the rest of the world crowned him the new “Tsar”. Ahmedinajed visited Venezuela to pledge millions for an “anti-imperialistic” funds while Iran is witnessing its greatest economic crisis. The “Dear Leader” of North Korea disappeared while doctored photographs replaced him.

Pervez Musharraf resigned in Pakistan. Zardari Khan (or as the rest of the world calls him, Mr. Bhutto) succeeded him. So far, his only accomplishment has been getting a fatwa (because he called Sarah Palin ‘gorgeous’).  The U.S. Has increased its forays into Pakistan to hunt terrorists who were meanwhile creating havoc and mayhem in Delhi.

However, it would be unjust to label 2008 as the year when optimism ended. The change is in the air, from New Zealand to Pakistan to France, where Greenpeace put Sarkozy’s pictures on the famous Obama poster which was originally created by an underground artist. Yes, change and hope-the very campaign slogans of Barack Obama-are in the air. These words which carried him to the White House to become the first African American President of the United States were proof positives that the overrated tradition of optimism is still alive and kicking. Unfortunately, Americans felt equally enthusiastic and optimistic the same eight years ago when another prolonged election season ended at the Supreme Court. Once again, history has been a harsher judge.

The Blessing in Disguise

In The World on January 9, 2009 at 8:18 am

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Financial crises are usually seen as blessings in disguise because they have the power change the course of history, mostly for the better. However, if the current crisis is a blessing in disguise, then it is in a very good disguise too. Low-income and middle-income family will suffer terribly; many will eventually lose their jobs. The pyramid schemes will be exposed. Moreover, in an age of globalization, there won’t be any miracle rescue packages nor economic Marshall plans. So, the bottomline is everyone must help oneself but have to bailout everyone else too. However, the worst of this maelstrom has passed us. A disastrous collapse of the Wall Street has been averted, so we can look ahead finally.

The financial crisis has already brought a blessing to Washington D.C.–the Obama administration. The crisis not only ended deficit ridden Republican Administration at its eighth year, it also revealed that two decades of Greenspan Chairmanship at the Federal Reserve—an undying legacy of Reagan’s  Republican Revolution—did more harm than good to the American economy.

moneyWhatever you may think about Greenspan, the maestro presided over an unprecedented economic boom and propelled American consumerism into the frontiers. Today, Americans consume 13 Trillion dollars of goods, most of them produced in the developing world. This mean that when American market is in turmoil, the entire world will suffer. China—optimistically looked upon as a global survivor—can’t replace America when it is saving a lot for future economic growth/investment (which is exactly what Greenspan Fed dissuaded in the U.S.) and only consuming one-tenth of what Americans are consuming.

So, the positive externality is that America foreign dependence is likely to go down as well. Chinese and Saudi Arabian investors have been gobbling up the U.S. real estate and investment markets in past few years. When the crisis came, the sheiks and communist cadres knew little, cared little and did little. The Obama administration will impose protectionist measures (which I don’t agree) but the silver lining will be that the Congress may now consider the foreign investments with increased wariness.

American unemployment is going up, but Mr. Obama has promised three million jobs—it is clear that he have a master plan to revitalize America. After the WWII, the unemployed masses found their salvation in FHA’s development loans for suburbias. Mr. Obama should direct a similar national initiative to reform mass-transport infrastructure into a system akin to those in Europe. An affordable mass-transit and GPS/Satellite roadpricing are two of many environmentally-friendly ventures American government can do with a large unemployed workforce.

Along the same lines, the congress should use the auto-bailout plans to enforce the Big Three automakers to produce the cars energy-efficient and market-compatible with foreign imported cars like Toyota Prius. During the last regulations on automakers under Nixon-Ford-Carter administrations, the American fuel efficiency nearly doubled—it is now time to do it again.

The global economies usually have boom-and-bust cycles nearly every decade, but this 2008 one is pretty big. It is the big one that they predicted since 1987. Yet, we were hit hard not because of warnings are ignored but also because we believed, we were led to believe, we wanted to believe—and we even hoped and prayed—this prosperity (which is tenuously built on the ever-expending gap between the rich and the poor and the exploitation of labor in the developing world) will last forever and that mortgage prices and demand will go up forever. In our past, there had been many boom-bust cycles, and in our future, there will be more, but this one—mainly due to the media coverage it receives in increasingly tech-savvy world—will serve as a cautionary tale for a few generations to come.

Or will it?

Why Sudan must not be new Rwanda

In The World on December 22, 2008 at 5:18 am

Generation Y and Z are the terms demographers use to categorize the people born in the late 1980s and the early 1990s. The world was at least a more serene place then, the Berlin Wall was coming down, the Communist bête noir is finally slain, and the forces of democracy seems thriving: from China to the Philippines to Kuwait. And then came Yugoslavia and Rwanda and the false illusions of a peaceful and glorious 21st century were shattered forever.

Fifteen years after the Rwandan Genocide (a term the Clinton Administration wavered in using), another conflict in Africa is quickly transforming itself into a catastrophe of Rwandan proportions. In 100-day genocide in Rwandan, an estimated one million people has perished. In Darfur, the death toll is nearing half-a-million now. Unlike Rwanda, the numbers are spread over the conflict’s five-year span (2003-2008). This makes the world less attentive but this does not mean that Darfur is not Rwanda, the Sequel. It is already becoming one.

Sudan’s main trading partners China and Russia are more concerned with oil rather than human lives. Currently, it will not be politically correct to point fingers for the Rwandan genocide, France and other Francophone nations of Africa that initially prevented the international intervention in Rwanda with their irrational fears that the American and British troops (who had just rolled back the Iron Curtain) would gradually diminish Francophone influence in Africa.

With Rwanda, the UN took forty days just to agree on the term ‘genocide’. On May 17, 1994, it pledged to send a peacekeeping force, which was further delayed by arguments over cost and contributions. A month later, the Security Council authorized the French forces to enter the country, but it was too late. They arrived in one area after another only to find burnt villages and killing fields. Later, the French Operation Turquoise was even accused to aiding the genocide perpetrators.

People who believe that the Western peacekeeping forces will only exacerbate the conflict between Islamic World and Judeo-Christian West need to revisit their creeds. The international community’s beliefs that the conflict is religious and political were the result of a false propaganda campaign by the Arab League, on whose leaders’ necks the scarlet letters of genocide should–and will–hang. Despite the Arab League’s ill omens, the Darfuri conflict is less religious in nature, but more political.

The Arab League has expressed ‘concern’ over the violence in Sudan’s Darfur which they term a ‘great regional instability’. The ongoing Darfur crisis that started in 2003 coincides with record high nominal oil prices, which resulted in record high budget surpluses in Gulf countries. However, their financial, humanitarian and peacekeeping contributions to the troubled region are farcical. The Arab League supported the ill-equipped African Union (AU) forces in Darfur (AMIS) as the only solution for Darfur but contributed only $15 million to AMIS (compared to the EU’s $520 million). Canada alone contributed more than all the Arab countries combined. Of 7,000 troops, only 76 (34 Egyptians, 20 Mauritanians, 13 Algerian and 9 Libyans) come from Arab countries.

However, the Arab countries are very active on Darfur issue-in thwarting international mediations. They justified their rejections by echoing the Sudanese government that even a neutral peacekeeping force will threaten the Sudanese sovereignty. This is double standard since a UN peacekeeping force is already working in the troubled Southern Sudan.

On Arab media–which gleefully glorified suicide bombers from Baghdad to Bethlehem, there are great censorships concerning Darfur. For example, when an Arab League Commission of Inquiry into Darfur (2004) found attacks on civilians as “massive violations of human rights”, the statement was later suppressed and removed from their website. Ironically–but predictably–the Darfur conflict was downplayed by the Arab media, which adores to vividly portray the violence in Israel, Lebanon-Syria and Iraq with morbid accuracy. They even recast the Darfur conflict as a cover for Palestine and Iraq. Hardest to understand is an editorial in the Egyptian newspaper Al-Gomhouriya dated April 20th 2007, which claims that only 200,000 people (instead of 400,000 as noted in the Western Press) are killed in ‘war crimes’ (which is the editorial’s substitute for the word ‘genocide’). Even if it is a civil war with only 200,000 casualties, it is time for international community to act.

In July 2008, Chief Prosecutor of the International Criminal Court (ICC) Luis Moreno-Ocampo announced the court’s decision to seek the arrest of Sudanese President Omar al-Bashir for genocide, crimes against humanity, and war crimes. The Arab League has publicly condemned the resolution, and stated with a straight face that the domestic trials followed by justice systems of Arab League and the African Union will be a better substitute. In the case of pot calling kettle black, President Bashir had called Moreno-Ocampo a “terrorist” and suggested that he should be removed from office.

Already, the blood has been spilled and it is on the hands of Russia, China and the Arab countries. A 2006 UN report clearly states that the government supplied weapons to militias. However, Arab League, Russia and China rejected proposals to end the sale of weapons, which the Sudanese government also uses to attack civilian villages.

Hopefully, it will not escalate to a disaster of Rwandan scale. Let’s keep our fingers crossed, but let’s also keep our troops alert. With the horror of Somalia (and American intervention there) hanging above our heads, it will not be rational to green-light a military invasion, but it will be equally irrational to ignore the cries of millions of Sudanese people. Let’s just reflect about it.

….suffer what they must?

In The World on December 10, 2008 at 6:31 am

“When a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, it is their right, it is their duty, to throw off such Government, and to provide new Guards for their future security.”

Every time I read a story about Zimbabwe (or Rhodesia as I grew accustomed to calling it), these immortal words from the American Declaration of Independence reverberate in my ears. This morning, Kenyan Prime Minister Raila Odinga called for a regime change in Zimbabwe. This is the sign that the writing is already on the wall for Zimbabwean strongman Robert Mugabe.

2008 is the year everything changed in Zimbabwe. The first round of Presidential elections gave 5% lead to the opposition leader Morgan Tsvangirai. A long-drawn dispute over a run-off election ensued—with the opposition claiming that violence has been enacted upon their party members. This led to Tsvangirai’s withdrawal from the ballot, international condemnation of the one-party run-off election and subsequent power-sharing agreement brokered by outgoing South African President Mbeki.

Mr. Mbeki’s optimism towards the agreement is not shared by me. Instead of unifying the trouble nation, it tried to create the body politic out of two irreconcilable ideologies. The power-sharing plan failed in October and Zimbabwe is found itself on the square one once again.

On the UNSC floor, we listened to the Zimbabwean government—nay, the Mugabe government (for it will be injudicious to refer to a despotic few as a representative government of a nation). Mugabe and his ambassadors asserted that Zimbabwe is not a threat to other countries. Yes, it may be too failed a state to be a danger to the international community, but it still poses a danger to its own people.

The international community have tried both sanctions and negotiations on Zimbabwe. Tackling the situation seriously, the British government removed Mugabe’s knighthood. Needless to say, none worked. Now, Zimbabwe is mired in its worst humanitarian disaster since the independence—it is finally the time to act.

The Mugabe government is the greatest obstacle between the aid and Zimbabweans. When the United Nation Security Council decided to take action on Zimbabwe, Russia, China and South Africa wanted more negotiations. Well, three months and a handful of futile negotiations later, Zimbabwe has taken its final calamitous journey towards the failed statehood.

The main argument against the international intervention in Zimbabwe concerns the blotched US intervention in Somalia, which left the latter as a failed state and a breeding ground for the international terrorism. In comparison, however, Zimbabwe is very near to being a failed state. If it is not already a good reason for the West, the UN or the AU to intervene, the prospect that we should be facing the greatest humanitarian disaster in decades is an irrefutable one.

The intervention in Zimbabwe doesn’t mean a full scale war. It means a surgical strike to remove Mugabe and his cronies from the power. After the disputed elections and current crisis, the morale and loyalties of Zimbabwe’s 60,000 member army are low. So, if we act now, we can easily contain the situation before the New Year comes.

In 1979, Mugabe came to power in a coup supported by the international community, because it overthrew the white-supremacist government of Ian Smith. He was hailed as a liberator. Thirty years on, the title ‘liberator’ has been supplanted on his resume by ‘tyrant’ ‘murderer’ and ‘racist despot’–the words used thirty years ago to describe Ian Smith.

The story is ironic, as well as tragic. The fact that the  world let this to happen twice in the same country over a lifespan of a generation is more heartbreaking. We failed the Zimbabweans—we failed them repeatedly over the last few years. By our silence, we sinned—we lowered ourselves to Mugabe’s levels. It is now the time to repent and act. Twelve million Zimbabweans wait for us.

Meanwhile in the Netherlands….

In The World on December 7, 2008 at 1:46 am

I have been to the Netherlands only once—I visited Amsterdam a few years back. It is a city like no other; its brothels and marijuana cafes not withstanding, Amsterdam is safer than London or New York.  It is a city of vice, but also a city of law.

This extraordinary balance may be jeopardized by the City Council of Amsterdam’s decision to cut the brothels and  marijuana cafes by half. Some of these establishments are “a cover for organised crime,  drugs and human trafficking”, the City Council noted. It may be true, but I simply don’t see how reduction of these establishments will reduce crime.

Firstly, prostitutes will be driven out of their establishments. According to a 2004 census, only 10% of prostitutes in the Netherlands are driven into prostitution (primarily by drug addiction). The number is significantly larger in other EU countries. So if these prostitutes lost their jobs, where will they do? Take alternative jobs in factories and offices? I don’t think so. Unless the government offers a large subsidy for job training, they will be driven into the streets or into other establishments. If that is the case, they will need “agents”, whose connections with organized crime are more than a theory.

In 2006, de Rodedraad (the Red Thread), 20,000 member Dutch prostitute union, released a statement which noted that prostitutes are still treated terribly within some brothels. If the number of brothels are to be halved, such conditions are likely to exacerbate as supply of prostitutes in a city will overtakes maximum capacity a brothel can hold. As the result, the minimal wage will also fall, and the city, the police and the streetwalkers themselves may find themselves in an utter mess.

Drugs will take to the streets. This evokes the memory of the Prohibition instituted in the US. In the 1920s and 30s, the Prohibition not only created Jay Gatsbys but also Al Capones and Lucky Lucianos. Some will argue that reducing drugs by half is not comparable to the blanket sanctions of the Prohibition, but the latter example showed the prevalence of the organized crime during the eras of restriction.

Closing brothels and drug cafes to curb crime is like closing coal plants to fight global warming. It may work, but there will terrible consequences—the consequences that will make everyone unhappy, and angry, the latter especially with the utilitarians. Not all change is good. This change definitely not. So, Amsterdam should throw out this plan totally and find an alternative route to fight crime–like more involvement with De Rodedraad to systematically tackle the terrible conditions.

One and all, bag and baggage

In History, The World on September 6, 2008 at 11:06 am

“Let the Turks now carry away their abuses, in the only possible manner, namely, by carrying off themselves. Their Zaptiehs and their Mudirs, their Blmhashis and Yuzbashis, their Kaimakams and their Pashas, one and all, bag and baggage, shall, I hope, clear out from the province that they have desolated and profaned. This thorough riddance, this most blessed deliverance, is the only reparation we can make to those heaps and heaps of dead, the violated purity alike of matron and of maiden and of child; to the civilization which has been affronted and shamed; to the laws of God, or, if you like, of Allah; to the moral sense of mankind at large.”

The words that still reverberate was first penned by the British Primeminister William E. Gladstone, in his pamphlet, “Bulgarian Horrors and the Question of the East” (1876). The issue and rhetoric can still easily be substituted for the current Georgian crisis. Russians, one and all, bag and baggage, shall clear out from the province that they have desolated and profaned.

See: http://www.sos-georgia.net/ for the in-depth look at the conflict and sign a petition at http://new.petitiononline.com/557799/petition.html

The Tragedy of African Commons

In The World on September 3, 2008 at 3:45 pm

The age of the empires was long gone. Not much of their legacy remains, most of them being obliterated by despots and dictators who once again consolidated power into absolute rule and who oversaw the return of corruption and civil wars. Today, many colonized countries remain in the Third World list; it is not the fault of the colonial powers. When they gained their independence in the 1950s and 60s, most of them were on the right track.

In the 60s and 70s, the continent of Africa falls back into the darkness once again. The tragedy of Africa lies with the continent’s irregular geography. Water and rivers are scant in Africa, because of its uneven terrain which created numerous waterfalls in available waterways. Thus, various advances of the civilization were denied to the people of Africa, not because of some genetic makeup (as quasi-science suggested) but because the continent lacks the effective mode of communication and commerce. Commerce and direct relations with major European powers contributed to the bloom it experienced in the late 19th century. After the bloody struggles for independence, most of these ties were severed.

Newly independent African nations were indeed headed by those educated in the West. Espousing and preaching the values of democracy, they managed to whip their fellow countrymen into independence, but for economy and prosperity they cared not. Unlike India or other dominions, Africa was occupied by the powers for only a brief period, and the infrastructure for the new nations to stand on their own is simply lacking. It was not ready to walk without crutches on its own. In other words, independence was still immature.

Independence, they did get. What happened afterwards was tragic. In Ivory Coast, Houphouët-Boigny pursued lavish architecture projects culminating with a $300 million church. Central African Republic becomes an Empire under demented Bokassa. Julius Nyerere established anti-capitalist Ujamaa program, which transformed Tanzania from Africa’s largest exporter of agricultural products to its largest importer. Kenneth Kaunda established one-party state and a personality cult in Zambia. All of this pale in comparison with Uganda’s Idi Amam or Rhodesia’s Ian Smith and Robert Mugabe. Yet, caught in their own political struggles (post-war rehabilitation, Cold War), the former colonial powers has washed their hands off the troubles in Africa. The USA and the USSR found they have ample allies without having to poke their noses into this neutral African mess.

Colonialism, redefined

In History, The World on September 3, 2008 at 3:39 pm

The term ‘colonialism’ has seen varying and gerrymandering definitions, no doubt as a result of a widespread smear campaign by those who fear effective governance. The term comes from the word ‘colony’, the enclaves the pioneers establish in the newfound lands for social, political or economical reasons. Before the Christian zeal entered the scene in the period between 1880s and the First World War, those colonies operated for solely economical gains.

Not unlike the mass exodus from the Third World to Europe and America today, the Europeans of the nascent days of colonialism saw their “manifest destiny” in the lands across the seas. Most crew members of early explorers and mercantile fleets don’t even know how to swim. To people like those, we owe success stories like America and Canada.

Through trading posts, these societies and colonies enjoyed good relations with the indigenous population. In Canada, for instance, the French and the Natives coexisted in a harmony that James Fenimore Cooper (and Hollywood) could not even dream of. In India, the early English merchants adapted and even intermarried into the native society. To this day, the global business success in places like Macau, Hongkong, Singapore and Shanghai owe their thanks to eclectic brand of talent and diversity that these empires brought together.

What today’s world doesn’t seem to understand is how these commercial ‘colonies’ became political entities and subordinate nations. However, colonialism was never political until the newcomers like Germany and Italy politicalized it in the first half of the 20th century. The British Empire was assembled “in an absence of mind”, and even the most imperialistic of all British Prime Ministers, Viscount Palmerston, hated the notion of having the political responsibility for the colonies.
By the 18th and 19th centuries, the colonies have become both a trend and a necessity. People also like to blame the colonialism for human exploitation. Widespread industrial revolution created by increasingly mercantile empires may have contributed to slavery, but slavers and privateers were individual brigands who operated without any approval from any Chancellery of Europe. In addition, British Royal Navy was almost singlehandedly responsible for abolishing slave trafficking and piracy in African and in the Caribbean. Naval ships patrolled the English Channel to prevent the slave ships from being built.

Sensationalism and rewriting history also contributed to typecasting colonialism and the age of progress as the forces of evil. Pirates, rapists, thieves, brigands and racketeers became the wronged heroes in literature, and on screen. On the contrary, the empires were forces of good. Jean Houdin in North Africa was exposing the fraudulent ways of native ‘witchdoctors’ and ‘magicians’. Ritual killings (thugee), wife burnings (suttee) and triads were being suppressed by the British in the Orient. Bloodthirsty native rulers like Kings of Dahomey, who offered frequent sacrificial murders and selling his captured prisoners to slavers, were gone. The rule of law, jurisprudence, education and sanitation were introduced to the areas which languished under absolute rulers.

In short, it was these much reviled empires, not some native Robin Hood or Joan of Arc that delivered the greater portion of the world’s population from oppression and inhumane rituals. It may not be so self-evident in retrospect, but the mere fact that the British were able to administer their rule of law to a subcontinent of 250 million people with their Indian Civil Service of a few thousand stood as the testament to the popularity and the efficacy of the imperial government.

Opium Wars

In History, The World on September 3, 2008 at 3:38 pm

Instead of its other success stories, the opium wars with China were what people chose to remember in relation to Britain’s imperial policy in the Orient. It is written that the First Opium War (1840) as the result of Britain’s militaristic attempts to import the drug into a nation governed by an emperor who wanted to stamp out the opium addition. It sounds like a concise and authoritative summary for history texts but the truth is more complex.

In addition to the facts that India had grown opium and ten million addicts in China had been using it long before the British arrived, the Chinese Emperor’s attempt to curb the trade is less humanitarian than xenophobic. He was simply trying to monopolize the trade and levy taxes to fill his government’s coffers. The Emperor’s envoys demanded not the destruction but only handing over of the opium chests. Originally the foreign merchants in Canton (which was xenophobic China’s only foreign trading post) complied, but when the Chinese forces took all foreigners in Canton hostage.

Equally controversial was the Second Opium War and its aftermath (1864). The British forces under Lord Elgin burnt down the Summer Palace outside Peking, an act which is today condemned as barbaric. However, it was more symbolic than malicious. The Middle Kingdom in those days was not unlike today’s North Korea, which believes in its superiority over the Western powers. Only the destruction of such a symbol would have prevented another war. And it actually did.

Not many people know about the looting and burning of the Peking Summer Palace, but opium, on the other hand, has left a blemish on the history of imperial conquest. In all fairness, opium was the placebo of Europe at this time. Five in six Englishmen consume it; the doctors prescribed it for hysteria, aches, travel-sickness, toothache, neuralgia, influenza, cholera, hay-fever, ulcers and insomnia. The Prince Regent’s doctors prescribed it as a hangover cure; Samuel Taylor Coleridge wrote Kubla Khan on it; Berloiz ate it to write ‘symphonie fantastique’.

Like debates on medicinal marijuana today, the debates on opium growing raged between the British East India Company and the two Houses of Parliament. However, as it will be with the certain South American nations a century later, opium was the sole crop the farmers can build their livelihoods on in South Asia. Also, the profits from its trading enabled the Governor General of India to fund much needed reforms, public works, education and other services in the subcontinent.

Opium growing is redefined as a malignant relic of the colonial times by the governments which like to blame the failures of their half-baked economic policies on the wrongs of distant past. During and after the Cold War, governments and rebel groups in the Golden Triangle and the Golden Crescent regions of Asia (where opium is still copiously grown) profited largely from the trade, making the region unstable and precarious. In a world where good and evil are rigidly defined, these ‘recreational drugs’ fall squarely into the latter category. However, the starving farmers in Indian Behar region or Columbian jungles who have to support a family of twelve couldn’t care less.

Let not history repeat itself

In History, The World on August 13, 2008 at 2:04 pm

Why we must denounce Russia’s Georgian Incursion

Sometimes—as with Nazi Germany—we try so hard to prevent a conflict that we have to eventually fight a greater, emboldened enemy.

On the eighth day of the eighth month of 2008, the Games of the 29th Olympiad opened in Beijing. Despite being foreshadowed by the Sino-Tibetan Crisis, the 2008 Games are not boycotted by any nation. It would have been an occasion for the entire world to rejoice the Olympic brotherhood, if not for a despicable act of aggression that occurred a few hours earlier in the Caucasus Mountains.

Russian forces invaded the separatist region of South Ossetia in Georgia. In the next few days, the Russians also entered Abkhazia, another Georgian break-away province, as the international community sits and watches. By this time, it is of no use to argue over whose faults caused this international crisis. Regrettably, Georgia has its own share of blame for ignoring the Ossetian and Abkhazian grievances, but it is clear who is David and who is Goliath in this unmatched conflict.
In the UN Security Council, the sitting nations found their hands tied by the impending Russian veto reminiscent of the Cold War days. Not only that, the Cold War-style exchange of acerbic words also descended into the Council Chambers in New York; however, it is a much more dangerous rhetoric from another page of history that eerily reflects the situation.

What Russian Prime Minister (and the Kremlin’s own eminence grise) Mr. Putin wants is the rehabilitation of the former Soviet glory at the expense of its neighbors. The concept almost sounds like something that Adolf Hitler would have proclaimed in one of his fiery and misguided speeches. Hitler deemed the German defeat in the First World War was unjustified while lamenting over the failures of the Kaiserriech and the Weimer Republic; Mr. Putin views the Soviet defeat that the end of the Cold War and the Yeltsin administration that followed as a humiliation of an equal nature.

South Ossetia and Abkhazia will be nothing but the Russian version of Anschluss which Hitler enforced on Austria. After Austria, the Nazi leader’s next target was Czechoslovakia; the Russian Bear’s next move could as well be towards Georgia itself, or towards any of former Soviet states like Ukraine, Moldova or Estonia which it is currently harassing.

As the hapless nations of Central Europe once looked West at Britain and France, everyone in Eastern Europe, and the Caucasus currently is counting on America and her NATO Allies. Perhaps it is the hollow promises of a NATO membership that emboldened Georgia and that forced Russia’s hand. The Western World will be repeating an egregious mistake of history if it let Russia get away with this destruction of everything we have worked so hard to accomplish since the fall of Berlin Wall. A note of caution for well-intentioned mediator President Sarkozy of France: it is not time for appeasement a la Neville Chamberlain or for economic sanctions which Russia government couldn’t care less.

No matter how much words and negotiations are more powerful than actions, sometimes it is necessary to take out our arms when our cherished values are threatened. To defend her long-espoused values of liberty and democracy, the West has little choice but to take out her slingshots once again. Sometimes, the war is the sole effective weapon to teach Goliaths a lesson or two. Russium et Moscua delenda est.

…through the lens of past

In History, The World on July 1, 2008 at 1:59 pm

In recent years, with the continuing crisis in Iraq, we began to doubt the functionalities of the unipolar, unilateral world which we have grown so accustomed to since the Fall of Berlin Wall may. In the face of our alternate choices, it may probably even be our safest.

Throughout history, we have seen our choices: unilateral empires, a power struggle between two empires (the most recently the Cold War) and a barbaric age in between the fall of one empire and the rise of another. We are currently in the last scenario.

Religious fanaticism is on the ascendant; the Western World is preoccupied with a toiling war in the Middle East; China supplies the essential goods for the wider world and holds it hostage with its astounding trade power—it sounds like a description of the Crusades-era world, a thousand years past. However, such description also rings some bells in today’s world. Indeed, if one will name our present era in the historical terms, I would put forward the name ‘neo-Dark Ages’.

It is true that we have our cutting edge technology. The denizens of the Dark Ages did have their own in sanitation, agriculture and warfare. It is true that we have more social freedom—the Dark Ages too had seen their own share of the most liberal governances of the past millennium (only in pre-Renaissance era came the Inquisition which terminated all these). Most strikingly of all, both our worlds thrive in a vacuum left void by the fall of an empire.

The history of the world has been the history of the empires. The original Dark Ages were born in the tent where Romulus Augustulus formally surrendered to Odoacer, but conceived with the sack of Rome under Attila the Hun. Our present one’s beginnings are less prominent even in retrospect. The birth pangs came with the slow disintegration of the British Empire (and her social hierarchy) but the age was impregnated on two days when we let terrorists win.

The 1914 assassination of Archduke Francis Ferdinand of Austria-Hungary was carried out by the Black Hand, the Serbian state-sponsored terrorist organization. The attack was righteously vindicated by the Austro-Hungarian Empire at the risk of endangering his own sovereignty. However, another terrorist take-over in Russia passed unnoticed. Vladimir Illyich Lenin and his band of Bolsheviks were nothing more than regicides and anarchists, who when got the supreme power betrayed their own inner wolves and colored the entire Siberian tundra red with their vengeance and hatred. Britain, France and the U.S., the victors of the First World War, let these anarchists win fearing the labor unrests in their own backyards.

That marked the official beginning of appeasement and disarmament, which accompanies the Western Powers throughout the 20th century. It culminates with Chamberlain’s the ‘Peace of Our Time’ but regrettably didn’t end with Chamberlain. Disarmament was always in the air throughout the Cold War. Reagan appeased Iran in the Contra Scandal. With such politicians, it is no wonder that the greatest leaders who forged the world as we know it are Lincoln, FDR and Churchill, the men who didn’t fear to lead their countries into war to fight for the righteous cause.

It took four centuries from the fall of Rome to reunite Europe; under Charlemagne, the new Roman Empire was again founded. After Charlemagne, it was one empire after another (the Holy Roman Empire, the Ottoman, the Spanish, the Napoleonic, the British and the German) that replaced his realms and that brought Europe to forefront of the world.

The fall of the British Empire is coupled with the power-struggle between the Soviets and the Americans known as the Cold War. The Cold War rivalry produced greatest scientific and humanitarian achievements of the 20th century: the Berlin Airlift, the Marshall Plan, NATO, the Apollo Missions, World Wide Web, etc. However, after the end of the Cold War, human race had lost not only its ability to fight but also its ability to survive.

(To be continued)

The Troubled Present…

In History, The World on July 1, 2008 at 1:57 pm

In our 21st century world, freedom is still challenged everywhere. That sacrosanct body which embodied diplomacy, tactfulness and peace, the United Nation, lies violated and unheeded. Every September, the leaders from around the world gather at the United Nation General Assembly to hear people like Hugo Chavez and Mahmod Ahmadenajed lashing out against the ideals of freedom and extolling the virtues of crime and anarchy. The world faces new challenges like war crimes, genocides, humanitarian disasters, cyber-warfare, religious fanaticism and terrorism, to solve which we should probably re-envision our existing rigorous adherences to laissez-faire foreign policies, that is to say ‘give war a chance’.

In the international scene, Zimbabwe (formerly Rhodesia) has been making news from past few years, which 84-year old Robert Mugabe desperately trying to cling on his absolute power at all costs. The Western World was once relieved that Mugabe seized power from Ian Smith, who declared unilateral independence from Britain and established white-minority government in Rhodesia. However, Mugabe proved to be a more ruthless racist than mild-mannered Ian Smith.

In the 1970s, the Western Powers played a role in Mugabe’s coup d’état by doing nothing and ignoring the pleas of minority white government. However, the similar laissez-faire tricks of the Western governments will not work again in Zimbabwe. Although nearly all of its neighbors are wildly clamoring for the regime change (even Nelson Mandela lends his voice), Mugabe will probably be able to cling on to his power so long as the Communist China attempts to block any international attempts to alleviate the nation’s pains.

Whenever there is Chinese and Russian antagonism, the Western World is always reduced to imposing sanctions on these pariah states. Sanctions simply don’t work. US and EU arms embargo cannot be implemented when the ‘outposts of tyranny’ receives arms, wherewithal and allegiances from Russia, China and other wannabes superpowers like Iran and Syria.

In recent memory, the Western World is always reluctant to take military or martial actions. The psychological warfare, a relic of the Cold War, has since lost its luster and has been accordingly relocated into the dustbins of history. However, its efficacy is undeniable. During the apartheid, South Africa’s athletes were banned from Olympic competitions for three decades, and barred from international competition in rugby and cricket. It was an immense psychological blow to the white minority. If we can do anything within what little freedom granted to us by the callousness of those plutocrats in Beijing, Moscow and elsewhere, we should put blanket sanction on culture, sport and luxury items, thus depriving the dictators of something to gloat about.

Instead, in the face of Mugabe’s recent undemocratic turns, the British reaction to this international conflict was shameful. Her Majesty’s Government rescinded the knighthood from Mr. Robert Mugabe, and that is all they did. When the paws of once-mighty British lion are so tied that it is reduced to removing knighthoods, it is just plain disgraceful. It is as if the entire freedom-loving peoples of the world are held hostage.

Economic sanctions don’t work on the geopolitical level either. With millions of people under dictatorships around the world just struggling to survive, sanctions make their lives worse. For the ruling-class, they eat cake in their own Rolls-Royces and villas. With help those dictatorships receive from one another, the government officials simply have means and money to live on, when ordinary people have to beseech and comply with the iron-will of the government for the privileges we took for granted.

Like in Zimbabwe, another dictatorship in Burma survives because of its natural resources and its alliance with China. Some corporate giants like Royal Dutch Shell and British American Tobacco in Zimbabwe and Total in Burma, simply refuse to shop working with the ‘governments’ of these nations. After all, they earn solid returns in dealing with these Orwellian states, in part to corruption and in part to the lack of union laws. The money gained from the natural resources the Mother Nature endowed to the land and its people usually goes into the personal coffers of undemocratically-elected few (and eventually into accounts in Cayman Islands) as unwitting superpowers turns a deaf-ear.

Elsewhere in the world, the negligence of the superpowers is almost criminal. The ongoing crisis in the Darfur region in the Sudan calls for an international action similar to one which placated the former Yugoslavia in the 1990s. However, again China, which has various trade treaties with the Sudan extremist government, has resisted denouncing the atrocities committed inside the nation. If you take these international crises to account, it turns out after all that China’s rise hasn’t been so ‘peaceful’ after all.

Clearly devised with Machiavellian intents, China’s no-interference policy benefits only a cadre of unethical politicians in Beijing. It also gives the immunity to one-China policy, which eerily sounds like Hitler’s plans to unite all Aryan races. In Tibet, Communist oppression destroys culture heritage. Even after 50 years of independence of Taiwan—whose place in the United Nations Security Council that Communist China had usurped—China is still calling for reunifications. It seems as if the reunification is in the air, but the wary Taiwanese should bear in mind what happened to the people of Hong Kong after the British handed back the territory to the Mainland China.

With China so adamantly uncooperative on the international stage, it is no wonder that two of the world’s longest reigning dictatorships border China. The real reasons behind the failure of the Korean Peninsula peace-talks lie with the Chinese. However, a lesser known impasse is with Burma, fiercely undemocratic and unyielding since the 1960s.

Earlier this year, in May 2008, a cyclone ravaged the delta regions of Burma, killing 100,000 people and imperiling many others with water-borne diseases and putrid corpses. The initial reaction of the military junta which rules the country (since 1988 ) with the benediction of Beijing and Moscow (a UN resolution on Burma in 2004 was rejected with a double-veto from China and Russia despite an overwhelming approval in the Security Council) was deplorable. It banned the international aid agencies and British and American rescue crews from entering the country. The Western Fleet, onboard which were humanitarian support, waited outside Burma as if it was a beggar waiting for permission to beg inside the country. The U.S. delivered humanitarian aid without the consent of the host governments in places like Bosnia and Sudan, but with Burma, with China next door, the scenario is almost impossible without bloodshed.

Elephants of Carlsberg

In The World on June 30, 2008 at 12:38 pm

England has Big Ben. America has Lady Liberty. France has Eiffel Tower. Denmark? She has four Carlsberg elephants. Carlsberg Breweries in Valby (Southwest of the city-center) won’t be in my travel list if Kirsten didn’t recommend it vehemently. They are so diminutive for a conglomerate of such size, and it’s easy to miss this gate. Even the bus to the visitors centre doesn’t go past the gate so we had to walk to admire the Carlsberg elephants. (Only taking the visitor’s bus is recommended since it is 45 minutes walk from the nearest train station.)

These four magnificent statues (in fact they are carvings) form the gate that leads to the main entrance to the Carlsberg brewery. Completed in 1901, they symbolize four sons of the Carlsberg founder Ottalia Jacobson, and bore the initials of those four sons. On the elephants are the Swastika symbols, wishing health and prosperity to these four surviving sons of the tycoon. The Carlsberg Breweries itself used the symbol until the Nazis corrupted the symbol in the late 30s.

The Carlsberg Visitors Centre has nice exhibitions about the brewing of beers and the history of the Carlsberg-Tuborg Brewery. The entrance fee is cheap at 50 DKK (about 7 Euros) and include two beer tastings. However, it’s not a guided tour, and we had to follow the signs through the exhibitions halls, the stables, mews, garages with old beer wagons. The tour takes about 2 hours and inevitably ends in a small gift shop. Next to the shop is the beer tasting bar; but, it seems strange to me that some of the Carlsberg beers can only be tasted here and not sold anywhere in the world. One note of caution is that Carlsberg’s signature the Elephant Beer has twice the alcohol content as regular beer.

In the Tivoli Gardens, a kiss…

In Feelings and Remembrances, The World on June 30, 2008 at 12:36 pm

After lunch we went to Tivoli Gardens. Though it is an amusement park, Kirsten and a lot of Danes call it a pleasure garden, which makes me flinch. It first opened in 1843 as “Tivoli & Vauxhall”, taking inspirations from the Jardin de Tivoli in Paris and the Vauxhall Gardens in London. The origin story, as recounted by Kirsten, was pretty funny. It was built to indulge the Danish people so that they would forget about the politics.

First built in those years when Europeans viewed the Near and the Far East as the depraved centre of exotica and erotica, Tivoli have various Oriental buildings, from theatres to fountains: the Nimb Building with its domes and minarets, Chinese-pagoda gardens, Moorish pavilions, the Hanging Gardens, and the Bubble Fountain. (The original park was burnt down in 1943—again a symbolic message by the Nazis to destroy the old regime—but it was rebuilt.)

We took many historical rides in the park: the world’s oldest wooden roller coaster, (Rutsjebanen or Bjerg Banen (Mountain Track), according to omniscient Wikipedia), the world’s tallest carousel, Himmelskibet, and a nice free-fall tower, which Wikipedia doesn’t name.

We missed the Tivoli Symphony, which displays its merits only in the morning and at noon, but we stayed in the gardens until midnight. Tiny lanterns and bulbs illuminate the park from gorgeous Hans Christian Anderson Castle to the Glass Hall, which shines like an alien spaceship. The park transforms itself from an amusement park to a fair ground—open-air theatres replaced souvenir shops and cafés; jugglers and magicians came out of nowhere to entertain. But I was treated to two surprises.

At Chinese Mime Theatre, I saw Italian Commedia dell’Arte, and its clichéd story of Cassander, Harlequin, Columbine and Pierrot. I saw that once in Venice, but the Danish version was not only more colorful but also more vivant. (As a side note, the Chinese Theatre has a marvelous mechanical peacock’s tail curtain) From a small boat on the Tivoli Lake, we admired the firework display (only put together on Saturdays). Under the sky blued and crimsoned with Catherine wheels, and Roman candles, we ended the day with a lovely kiss.

Post-Scriptum: the return was not so pleasant. We didn’t know that the trains back to Køge stop running at half-an-hour past midnight, so we had to take a taxi back.

Ny Carsberg Glytotek, Copenhagen

In The World on June 30, 2008 at 12:33 pm

Today, I went to the downtown Copenhagen with Kirsten. We caught a train there since she told me that we don’t need strenuous cars to explore Copenhagen. We stopped at Central Station København (that is what they call their capital in Danish) and crossed the street to Ny Carsberg Glytotek.
Perhaps the only museum in the world built by a brewery, Glytotek was built by Carl Jacobsen of the Carlsberg Breweries (which is apparent in its name). The museum has only two things: old Greek, Roman and Etruscan statues, and French paintings.

You enter the museum and the first things you see are the sculptures by Rodin and other modern sculptors like Bissen and Jerichau. (There is even a room for religious icons around the corner.) The museum pamphlet says its Rodin collection is the most important collection outside France, but since Cantor Museum in Stanford, CA also claims thus, I was left confused. Rodin’s another replica of The Thinker stood outside the museum, but since I have seen at least four versions of it, I was more amused and intrigued by the bronze sculptures of Degas, which include his complete dancer series.

Ironically, the most famous room in the museum is its tropical Winter Garden at the centre of modern sculpture exhibits. In the middle stood nude The Water Mother (by Kai Nielsen) with babies which points upwards to the iron-dome of the museum. The Winter Garden leads to the Great Hall, which is usually used for public meetings and such gatherings. Around the Great Hall are exhibits of ancient cultures, from Egyptians to Greco-Roman. In fact, the museum is a stronghold of Etruscan and Roman art, housing various busts and heads of Roman Emperors.

The second floor and the new wing house various painters, the majority of whom were impressionists: Monet, Pissarro, Renoir, Degas and Cézanne. There were also David, Courbet, Manet, van Gogh, Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec and Bonnard. According to the brochure, the most famous paintings in the museum are Bissen’s Prince Paris with apple, and Manet’s The Absinth drinker. I also learnt something about Danish Golden Age of painting, housed in the new wing.

A Warm Welcome from a Bavarian Wedding Cake…

In The World on June 29, 2008 at 12:36 pm

Invariably dubbed ‘Fairy-Tale Castle’, ‘Dream Castle’ and ‘Swan Castle’, Neuschwanstein (which literally means “new swan stone castle”) is built through a folly of a mad Bavarian king, and immortalized by through follies of many romantics of the years that followed, which included one Walt Disney, who copied the castle for his princely fairy-tales (including Sleeping Beauty).

Built in southwest Bavaria, not far from the Austrian border, the most photographed building in the world was an idea of Ludwig II of Bavaria (“Mad King Ludwig”) who thought it would be nice to dedicate not only a grotto and a room but also an entire castle to the Swan Knight, Lohengrin, of Wagner’s opera.

Despite wild assumptions that the castle was designed by the king, aided by his comrade-in-lunacy Wagner, it was actually designed by one Christian Jank. The king was deposed and died before the castle was finished, but many tapestries and paintings inside which depicts scenes from Wagner’s Operas reflects the king’s infatuation with Wagner’s work.

The guided tour starts at the servant-quarters on the first floor, and take us through a spiral staircase to the Lower Hall on the third floor (the second floor was not completed). The Throne Room is on the right; the king’s apartments are on the left. The main staircase and the Lower Hall, decorated with scenes from the Sigurd legend of the Ring Cycle. (The saga of Sigurd’s wife Gudrun is in the Hall on the next floor.)

Only fourteen rooms were finished; the Throne Room which resembles a Byzantine church was completed, but the throne (which is to resemble an altar!) was never built. Decorated with semi-precious stones and faux-mosaics (paintings), the throne room took its inspirations from Munich All Saints Church and Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. The wall paintings show law-makers from the ancient, heathen and Christian worlds, who accompany along with angels, Christ, Mary, St John and six canonized kings. On the opposite side of the room is the Archangel Michael and St George.

The balcony, which is accessible from the Throne Room, has a magnificent view of the surroundings. (However, for the good view of the castle, however, one has to climb the nearby Marienbrücke (Marie’s Bridge))

In the king’s chambers, an anteroom leads into the Dining Room. This is followed by the Bedroom and the Oratory. The Salon, which is entered from the Dressing Room, is in two parts and is the largest room in the apartment. The next rooms are a grotto and a conservatory. The king’s study and an adjutant’s room end the tour of the third floor. Most rooms in Ludwig II’s apartment are Romanesque but his bedroom is Gothic.

It took 14 woodcarvers four years to complete the elaborate oak carvings of this room, and the king’s bed, which resembles a Gothic church. The wall paintings are of the Tristan and Isolde epic. The king’s private oratory is also Gothic, and accessible from both the bedroom and the dressing room. Originally planned large castle chapel was not completed. The altar, wall paintings and stained glass windows of oratory show the life of St. Louis IX of France, Ludwig II’s patron saint.

The Reading Salon is a ‘Swan Corner’. Four columns separate the main room from the “Swan Corner”. In the Salon the king was surrounded by illustrations from the Lohengrin saga, painted on coarse linen to look like tapestries. In this room the swan leitmotif appears not only in the pictures on the walls but also on the textiles and the doors and as a life-size naturalistic china model.

The pictures on the walls of the Dressing Room show the minnesingers and poets. The ceiling is a special feature: instead of being panelled with wood, it is painted with an illusionistic scene. Through the open roof of a garden bower with a trellis of vines, the observer looks up into a blue sky with birds.
Between the Salon and the Study is the most unusual room in the castle: the Grotto. When the doors are shut it looks like a natural dripstone cave. In Ludwig II’s day a small waterfall and coloured lighting created a romantic atmosphere. A hidden opening in the ceiling enabled him to listen to the music in the Singers’ Hall above. The room is an allusion to the Venus Grotto, where Tannhäuser succumbed to the charms of Venus (a saga illustrated in the next room, the king’s study).

A glass door which opens by sliding down into the “rock” leads from the Grotto to the Conservatory. Through the large glass panes there is an uninterrupted view of the Alpine foothills. The fountain in this room was originally intended for the Moorish Hall on the second floor of the castle.

The tour continues up the spiral staircase to the fourth floor. A palm-tree shaped column ends the main staircase, under a ceiling resembling a starry sky. Next to it is a dragon made of limestone, the “guardian of the tower”. The wall paintings resume the fate of Gudrun, the widow of Sigurd.
A Hall and the so-called Tribune Passage lead to the largest and most important room in the castle, the Singers’ Hall, directly above the grotto. The Singer’s Hall—decorated with The story of the Grail King Parsival, the father of Lohengrin—is the largest room in the castle. Despite its name, it is to serve as a banqueting hall and singers’ hall. In direct contrast is Ludwig’s small personal dining room. The king preferred to dine alone and his meals were transported from the kitchen three floors below through a manually operated lift. The wall pictures in the Dining Room are of the German troubadours or minnesingers. The highlight of this room is the centrepiece of gilt bronze of Sigurd’s fight with the dragon Fafnir.

The tour ends on the ground floor of the kitchen, which has been preserved exactly as it was in Ludwig’s day. However, Ludwig himself enjoyed its services for only two years.

Owing to his eccentricities and his rumored use of state funds (unfounded, since Ludwig actually used his own money to build the castle), Ludwig was removed from power before the castle was completed. He drowned himself soon after (mysteriously) and the castle and its amazing interior were opened to the public.

It was said that at the end of the Second World War, a hoard of gold from the German Reichsbank was stored in the castle, only to be carried off to an unknown place in the last days of the war. Rumors said it was plunged into the nearby Alat lake. Many other stolen items, from gold and antique jewelry to furniture and famous paintings were also stored at the castle. They were destined for Adolf Hitler’s personal collection.

The Walk of Fame

In The World on June 27, 2008 at 12:31 pm

If Hollywood is the place where the dreams are made, the Hollywood Walk of Fame is where they are enshrined. Once the name given to a portion of Hollywood Boulevard in front of the famous theatre-land, now the Walk of Fame, on which is embedded more than 2,000 names of the cinema, zigzags its way through the downtown Hollywood. The Walk is now terminated by the Silver Four Ladies of Hollywood Gazebo, which is topped a small silver statuette of Marilyn Monroe in her infamous pose.

Originally an idea of one Oliver Weismuller, who was hired by Hollywood to give it a “face lift”, the Walk of Fame once had 2,500 blank stars, of which over 1,500 stars were filled during its first sixteen months (in 1960-61). Joanne Woodward had the first star of the Walk. Since then, new stars have been awarded at the rate of approximately two per month.

Each five-pointed terrazzo star has different bronze symbols in its centre: a film camera, a TV, a record, a radio microphone, and comedy/tragedy masks for achievements in film, TV, music, radio and theatre. It is possible to get multiple stars; Bob Hope got three stars for his contributions to three areas of expertise. Gene Autry is the only one who received stars in all five categories.

According to Wikipedia, in order for a person to get a star, he must be nominated, agree to attend the presentation ceremony, and a $15,000 fee must be paid for the maintenance (fee is typically paid by sponsors).

While the new buildings are constructed, the stars are temporarily removed from the sidewalk. The stars of Jimmy Stewart, Kirk Douglas and Gene Autry were thus stolen during a construction project. The only other star to be stolen (of Gregory Peck) however was sawed it out of the sidewalk. To dissuade such crimes, cameras are now placed around the walk.

At the corner of Hollywood and Vine, a special “round star” on each of the four corners commemorates the Apollo 11 astronauts, Neil Armstrong, Michael Collins, and Edwin Aldrin. Disneyland, in honor of its 50th anniversary, was given an honorary star-plaque.

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, who were seventeen years old at the time they were awarded their star, are the youngest recipients of a star. They are also the only twins on the Walk. Once a nonexistent person named Maurice Diller was given a star on the Walk of Fame. After this was exposed by the Los Angeles Times in the late 1980s, the star was removed. Hedy Lamerr, the Czech icon who was the first to go nude on the silver screen (in the 1920s) and who was notable in her later life for being an inventor, also has a star. Of course, cartoon characters like Mickey Mouse and Woody Woodpecker has stars as well.

This Towery City, This Citadel of Knowledge…

In The World on June 26, 2008 at 12:24 pm

The lady novelists of the previous century will probably begin this piece with an emotional “Last night, I dreamt I went to Oxford again.” I can’t begin a la Daphne du Maurier because I don’t dream of Oxford, nor any other place in particular. It holds various memories for me, but I just don’t dream longingly of “Cuckoo-echoing, bell swarmed, lack-charmed, rock-racked, river-rounded” towery city.

Once the educational behemoth of our Empire, Oxford was founded by a group of discontented and expelled students from University of Paris, so it was supremely ironic when my mom snubbed Oxford to pursue her academic life at Sorbonne. Within its foundation and the 16th centuries, many of nearly-forty colleges that make up the university now were founded, though none admitted women until the beginning of the 20th century.

In Oxford, academic dress is mandatory: it is simple (a gown, a cap, and a neckwear) but it is required for enrollment even. The dress is worn to all the dinners served in the Formal Hall (which vary from every night in some colleges to once a term in others), to chapel, to collections (fancy name for tests) and to matriculation of course. Under these gowns, another set of clothes, called subfusc (dark) is usually worn to formal occasion. Subfusc consists of a dark suit, socks and shoes coupled with white shirt, collar and tie. It is white blouse and dark tie, skirt, stockings, shoes and overcoat for girls. Despite all these restraining dress-codes, the denizens of the university overwhelming voted for the maintaining subfusc in 2006.

Undergraduates of the university are divided into commoners (those without a scholarship) and exhibitioners (those with scholarship fancily called ‘exhibition’). These two parts differ in their dress codes as well, with the latter notably having bell sleeves instead of folded streamers. If a student were to lament this complicated sartorial taste, he must be reminded of more complex dress adherences the faculty and administration have to suffer.

Students may name preferred colleges in their applications, but it is not always that they are put into their first-choices. In graduate levels, the Fellows of a College personally choose the students whose research area appeals to them. Because of the high volume of applications and the direct involvement of the faculty in admissions, students are not permitted to apply to both Oxford and Cambridge in the same year. For admission, knowledge of Ancient Greek was required until 1920, and Latin until 1960.
Oxford was founded with three colleges (University, Balliol, Merton) and Exeter and Oriel followed next. Most Oxford colleges have their equivalent sister colleges in Cambridge. In addition to living in colleges, students can opt to live in private halls, two of which (Blackfriars, Greyfriars) accompanied the university since the founding. Christ Church College is the largest, and had so far produced 16 British Prime Ministers. According to recent lists, fifty heads of state or government studied at Oxford; this includes 25 British Prime Ministers. 47 Nobel prize winners have studied or taught at Oxford. It has produced at least 12 saints, 20 Archbishops of Canterbury, and nine Olympic medal winners.

Academic hierarchy is complex in Oxford. The most senior member of each college is the Head of House, but his title varies from college to college. For instance, Head of the House is a Principal in Brasenose and Jesus, a Warden in All Souls, New College, and Greyfriars, a Master in Balliol, Pembroke, and University, a President in Magdalen, Trinity, and Corpus Christi, a Provost in Oriel, a Dean in Christ Church, a Rector in Lincoln and Exeter, and a Regent in Blackfriars. The list is exhaustive of all titles but not of all colleges. A university tradition is a rivalry between neighboring colleges, most famous between Balliol and Trinity and Christ Church and Pembroke. All colleges are answerable to the Conference of Colleges.

Oxford doesn’t award B.Sc. but only B.A. and B.F.A. (Bachelor of Fine Arts). The degree holders proceed in time (usually 7 years) to a M.A. In post-nominals , the degree is followed by “Oxon.”, short for (Academia) Oxoniensis. In the 1990s, Master of Engineering was introduced for the four-year science programmes. Dubiously named ‘doctorate in divinity’ is the highest degree the university has to offer, closely followed by civil law, medicine, letters and science in that particular order.

Oxford’s structure is collegiate which means it is a federation of various colleges and halls. The university’s formal head is a Chancellor but the position is nominal (same throughout the British Isles). The de facto head is the Vice-Chancellor, aided by five Pro-Vice-Chancellors, which altogether froms The University Council. Two proctors, who are elected annually, supervise discipline.

The academic departments are not affiliated with any particular college and offer independent research, lectures, syllabi and guidelines. Tutorial teaching for which Oxford and Cambridge is known for is organized by individual colleges. Contrary to popular beliefs, most colleges will have a broad mix of academics and students from a diverse range of subjects. University facilities (such as libraries, gyms) are provided on university level, departmental level and college level.

It is the university, not the colleges, that is responsible for degrees. One must pass two sets of examinations: the end of the first year exams called Honour Moderations (Prelims) and the end of the course the Final Honour School (‘Finals’). The academic year is divided into three terms, Michaelmas (Oct-Dec), Hilary (Jan-March) and Trinity (April-June). Academic coaching is for only eight weeks—shorter than any British University. The start of coaching is counted 1st week, 2nd week and so on, until 8th week. Then, when the coaching ends, the numbering during breaks became negative anteceding the 1st week of the succeeding term: like “minus first week” and “noughth week”. Weeks begin on a Sunday. Students are expected to study independently in the three vacations (Christmas, Easter and Long).

Although colleges have endowments, the University itself thrives on research grants. The University approximate has an income of half a billion pounds and the colleges have a quarter of a billion pounds. It is a significantly small operating budget in comparison to rich American Universities, like Harvard and Yale, Oxford is trying to compete.

What to see in Oxford (somewhat plagiarized from my travelogue)

The Bodleian is the main University Library. It hoses Divinity School Room, which has a magnificent vaulted Gothic ceiling. The Radcliff Camera, the most famous of all Oxford structures (a reputation confirmed by the presence of Japanese tourists who take millions of photos of the Camera (pun intended)) was a Baroque attachment which houses English, History, and Theology books. The Bodleian, the second-largest library in the UK, (after the British Library), also spreads over the famous the Old Schools Quadrangle. Its most notable possessions include Shakespeare First Folio and a Gutenberg Bible.

The Sheldonian Theatre, built by Christopher Wren (his first building), hosts the University’s Graduation, Congregation, concerts and other degree ceremonies. The beautiful ceiling inside depicts the triumph of religion, arts and science over envy, hatred, and malice.

The Ashmolean Museum, founded in 1683, is the oldest university museum in the world (and the oldest museum in Britain). It has works by Michelangelo, Leonardo, Turner, Raphael, Bellini, Rembrandt and Picasso, as well as treasures such as the Parian Marble and the 1000-year old Alfred Jewel.
Two of Oxford’s most interesting museums adjoin each other in Parks Road, the University’s Science Area. The Museum of Natural History contains a Tyrannosaurus rex and a stuff dodo—the most complete specimen found anywhere in the world. The museum also houses the office of the Simonyi Professorship of the Public Understanding of Science, currently held by the noted atheist, Richard Dawkins. Adjoining it is the legacy of General Augustus Pitt Rivers to the University: the Pitt Rivers Museum, founded in 1884, which houses the archaeological and anthropological collections.

The Oxford Botanic Garden is the oldest botanic garden in the UK (the third-oldest in the world). Christ Church Picture Gallery holds a collection of over 200 old master paintings.

Note to the cautious

Oxford boasts a Magdalene Road, a Magdalene Street, a Magdalene college & a Magdalene bridge. They are all pronounced Maudlin, and even the word ‘maudlin’ is derived from Mary Magdalene.
Balliol College is pronounced “Bay-lee-ill”, the Bodelian Library is “Bod-lee-inn”, and of course, Worcester (like the sauce and the country) is forever pronounced Wooster (but Oxford pronunciation is usually more guttural.

The River Cherwell is pronounced ‘Charwell’. The River Thames is known as the Isis.
High Street, Broad Street and Turl Street but none others are affixed the definite article ‘The’ before their names: ‘The High’, ‘The Broad’ & ‘The Turl’. ‘Punting’ (rowing) is also a term specific to Oxford; the most famous Oxford regattas are Eights Week (Trinity term), Torpids (Hilary term) and Christ Church (Michaelmas regatta for novices).